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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.